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Difficulty: Noob
Objective: The gcode is the easiest and most accurate way to predict how your part will print. Learn how to make gcodes, inspect them, and make them be one of your best 3D Printing Friends.



Just like google maps creates a path for a person to follow, a slicer software also creates a path to be printed upon. This is essentially what a gcode is. It tells the printer where to move, how fast to move, layer by by layer. The g-code is the most accurate prediction of what will be printed. 

Creating a gcode

There are many options for a software to slice your model to be printed, such as Slic3r, Cura, or as I am using in the pictures, Makerware. These programs are free to download and take your model and convert it into a file that can be printed. To create the gcode of your file, import your model and export it as a gcode.

Inspecting the gcode

Next we take our gcode file that we just created and import it into a gcode viewer. There are multiple viewers, however I enjoy the free online viewer found at: gcode.ws 
Drag and drop your newly created gcode file into the site. Loading bars should appear.
This is what it looks like:



3D Mode

Will display a 3D model constructed of the paths of each layer. It looks a little odd at first, but you'll get used to it soon. The most important thing is to rotate and zoom to get every angle so that you can spot the errors. Below are examples of what you are trying to spot.

Giant Holes / Missing Layers

This is the most common problem that you can see usually due to non-manifolds. Rotate your model until you see something as shown in the picture below. This means that nothing will be printing where the missing material is lacking. So don't print the file because it will look exactly like this.


Random Extra Material

This is rare and usually has little effect on the print and I have no idea what causes this. My best advice is to reorient the model and pick the least of the worst reoriented gcodes. Luckily most of the extra material is on the outside and can be broken off after printing. 

Inner Material

Usually this is due to the software you used to make the gcode will want to add automatic supports inside the model.



Odd object

Some objects usually small or thin often have a hard time generating a good gcode. Here was a project that I was working on for a Math student. As seen below most there were obvious errors that were going to happen. 

One way to fix this is to change the orientation of the model before you create the gcode. For example try rotating it 45 degrees about the x axis, try flipping it upside down, etc. Try a few orientations and then pick the best one.


2D Mode

This mode lets you look at each individual layer and the path the printer will take. You can also check the speeds of each layer, and if need be change the speed in advanced settings when you print it.

Also you may find it useful to look into the "2D Render Options" on the right hand side to make the view more clear.

Odd Layer

When a person mows a lawn they usually follow a pattern or some logic order. But imagine a person who decides to mow the lawn with a random pattern. This happens in 3D printing and to me it is hilarious and annoying. I just want to ask the software if they are drunk or on drugs because the path is so bad. 


This happens most often at the first and last layers. In the picture shown below, you can see how the rough layer on the feet and between the legs of this cougar. It would look identical in the gcode 2D view.

Gcodes do take a little more time, but in my opinion are worth it so that you do waste time and material printing something that you could have know would have not printed out well.


Please leave a comment.
And as always, thanks for visiting,
3D Printing Ninja
3DNinjaneer@gmail.com




Objective: Understand the 3D Printing Process.



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There are 6 steps in the printing process: Pre-Design, Obtaining a Model, Modeling, Printing Prep, Printing, and Finishing Touches. This blog contains more detail about each topic in other posts. Please search this blog for more info on any of the topics mentioned below.
Even before you have a 3D model it is wise to know what your printer is capable of. If you printed a picture on a black and white printer, then you shouldn't expect color. Likewise you should keep in mind what your 3D printer is capable of. Specifically where the supports will go, the size of the model, and the material. 

2.) Obtain a Model

3.) Modeling
A model can be obtained as a file from online from sites such as thingiverse.com. Or a model can be made on a software program such as Blender. Once you have the model you are ready to get it ready to be printed

4.) Printing Preparation

Slicing the model

If you are sending your model to another company to print your object for you, then you don't need to slice your model. Usually the company will take your file saved as an stl format. Otherwise if you are printed the model yourself, then you will need a software such as Makerware, to take your 3D model and convert it into a form that the printer can read. 

5.) Add supports and raft

If your model will need supports you should model them in or add them somehow. The program that slices your model probably can add supports. This is probably the hardest stage because you will need to add supports but not to many. Also add a raft if you need it. 

6.) Check for errors

Non-Manifold Geometry

If you are feeling lucky then you can skip this step, but it's probably a smart choice to take the extra time to check your model for errors. Most software programs that you designed your model on can check for errors. I recommend using Blender or Autodesk Meshmixer which finds non-manifolds.

Gcode

7.) Settings

There are a few settings that need changed such as resolution, shells, infill, etc. but most of the settings stay the same. 

8.) Printing

You can send your model to a company such as Shapeways or 3dHubs  to be printed or print it yourself. 

This the easy stage as you simply send the sliced file to the printer. Make sure you have enough material loaded. Make sure your computer won't shut down if it is connected directly to the printer. And make sure you have the time to wait. I work with many procrastinators who need something printed within a time frame. Even if it is printed in that time frame, many times they realize afterwards that they need to modify the model and reprint. Also the printer can have a problem as well, so just make sure you have the time. I would make sure you watch the start of the print as most problems occur at the very start. 

7.) Finishing Touches

Your model is done and could probably take some sanding, panting, and machining. If you used supports or a raft then those will need to be broken off. They should snap right off. Be careful not to break the model though.

Please leave a comment.
And as always, thanks for visiting
3D Printing Ninja
3DNinjaneer@gmail.com